Japanese Goldfish Chart

A chart shared by a member of the Goldfish Forum detailing the lineage of goldfish based on the Japanese system. There are many names that are unfamiliar to the casual or even seasoned enthusiasts. Below is a grossary and description of the names that I managed to pick bits and pieces from everywhere:

1) Huna - Japanese term for the Wild Crucian Carp

2) Hibuna - Red/Golden Crucian Carp as a result of mutation. Also known as the Common Goldfish.

3) Wakin - Twin Tailed Hibuna

4) Ryukin - Popular Goldfish that originates from the Ryuku Islands

5) Watonai - Intermediate between Wakin & Ryukin

6) Demekin (Aka, Sanshoku, Kuro) - Telescope or Moor

7) Tyotengan - Celestial / Bubble Eye varieties

8) Shubunkin - Calico Comet with rounded caudal tailfin

9) Azumanishiki - Calico Oranda

10) Tetugyo - Comet

11) Tetuonaga - Similar to a fantail

12) Hanafusa - Oranda Lionhead with pom pom

13) Nankin - Ranchu without headgrowth

14) Edonishiki - Calico ranchu

15) Osaka ranchu - Ranchu w/o headgrowth, rounder and broader body, 3 lobe almost horizontal tail.

16) Maruko - Old variety of ranchu that is no longer bred. No headgrowth. Body similar to today's lionhead.

17) Syukin - Japanese lionhead with long ribbontail caudal finnage.

18) Kiransai - Old variety of goldfish. A cross between the Wakin & Lionhead

Goldfish Varieties-Tosakin

Possessing all the grace of a ballerina, the Tosakin is a relatively exotic breed of goldfish that originates from Japan. It’s overall shape and form resembles the Ryukin, from which it is descended; albeit the Tosakin was developed to be admired from a the top. If the Ranchu is known as the ‘King’ of Japanese goldfish, then the Tosakin is aptly known as the ‘Queen’.
The Tosakin has a spectacular tail shape and is truly the only goldfish breed with fuzed twintail lobes. When viewed from the top, the tail forms one continuous ‘skirt’ that rarely separates beyond the 1/4 point towards the peduncle. This gives the Tosakin an extremely graceful form and fluid like movements.
Apart from the tail, finnage is more or less similar to the Ryukin’s. The body however, does not display the characteristic hump as in the Ryukin. Coloration is varied but more commonly self coloured red and white, as these are judged to be the ideal ‘Japanese’ standard.

Ryukins are seldom observed outside of Japan. Recently however, good quality examples have been successfully bred in Thailand.

Goldfish Varieties-Ryukin

The Ryukin is an extremely popular breed of goldfish for the aquarium. It’s overall form is similar to a fantail or veiltail. The most obvious distinguishing features are it’s extremely deep and short body shape coupled by a distinctly humped dorsal area and sharp head. Ryukins come in both short and long caudal fin types and are extremely pleasant looking aquarium fish. The other fins are similar to a fantail but the tail is held high and is relatively narrow. Coloration is varied and consist of the usual self coloured, variegated, and calico types.
The Ryukin is thought to have been developed in China and was brought to Ryuku in Japan to be refined to the form that it is today. Subsequently, it’s aesthetically pleasing form has seen the type spread to the West as well. It is now a ubiquitous breed that is found is most LFS around the world.

Goldfish Varieties-Bubble Eye

This variety is characterized by enlarge cheek sacks that contain fluid. The sacks grow to the extent that they cause the eyes to point upwards, somewhat like the Celestial; whose overall shape and form it somewhat resembles.
Coloration is varied. Finnage is similar to a fantail but lacking the dorsal fin. This breed is comparatively rare in the West but easily available in the Far East. In China, a variety with small bubbles under the lower jaw and celestial eyes is known as the froghead or toadhead.

Goldfish Varieties-Pom pom

The Pom pom breed of goldfish is distinguished by 2 enlarged nasal septums in the frontal area of the head. These growths resemble Cheerleader pompoms, hence their given name. The breed has a relatively deep body and it’s finnage is relatively long in most examples.
Coloration for this breed is varied and can be metallic, self colored, variegated or calico. They are also one of the few breeds that are found with or without the dorsal fin.

This breed is generally rare in the West but more common in the Far East. They are known as Velvety Eggfish in China. A variety with a dorsal fin is known as the Hanafusa is found in Japan.

Goldfish Varieties-Celestial/Dragon Eye

This breed of goldfish first appeared in the 1900s and probably originated from China. It’s body form and shape is somewhat similar to a Ranchu/Lionhead breeds in that it lacks a dorsal fin and has a relatively deep body. Lately however, examples of Celestials with a dorsal fin have become common. The distinguishing characteristic of this breed is it’s upward pointing eyes.

Coloration of this breed is varied. In China, the breed is known as the Dragon Eye while in Japan, it is known as the Demeranchu. This breed is generally more popular in the Far East and seldom encountered in the West.

Goldfish Varieties-Ranchu

It’s easy to see why the Ranchu is popularly known as the ‘King of Goldfish’ in Japan. It has a majestic and powerful form that belies it’s graceful movements. The head of the Ranchu, as in it’s close cousin the Lionhead, is covered with raspberry like growth known as the ‘wen’. A good Ranchu should have a balanced growth of ‘wen’ so as to impart a rectangular profile when viewed from the top. The body is very deep with a highly curved back; up to the caudal peduncle. The caudal fins should be held high at a 45O angle to the peduncle. The tail is forked and relatively short.
Ranchus have traditionally been bred to be viewed from the top. However, of late, side-view Ranchus have become popular as well. In Japan however, Ranchus are almost exclusively top-view varieties. Side-view Ranchus have been successfully bred in Thailand in recent years and are becoming more popular as an aquarium fish.
The Ranchu is arguably the most popular breed of goldfish in the Far East and is gaining popularity in the West as well.

Coloration is varied with the Calico and Black varieties especially prized within the side-view category. In it’s top-view form, red, orange and white remain the most popular examples.

Goldfish Varieties-Lionhead

The Lionhead is classified under the egg fish category due to it’s lack of a dorsal fin. This fish was developed in China and is characterized by prominent head growth on the cranial, cheeks and opercula. The headgrowth is commonly known as the ‘wen’ in the Far East and Japan. Scientific evidence points to an unspecified gene responsible for this headgrowth and it occurred independently in the Oranda and Lionhead breeds. In some examples, the headgrowth is so rigorous that it soon covers the eyes of the fish.
The Lionhead is noted for its flat graceful back and deep robust body. It’s head should display prominent growth and broad when viewed from above. The pectoral, pelvic, anal and caudal fins are relatively short. The tail is forked. It’s form conveys an impression of strength and power. It is a popular fish in both the Far East and the West. Coloration is varied although the metallic types seem to be the most commonly available.

Goldfish Varieties-Phoenix Eggfish

The Eggfish is naturally named for it’s egg shaped body. It is relatively deep and more or less evenly curved along the upper and lower edges. Both long and short-finned varieties are available. However, it is the long finned variety that is known as the Phoenix. It has no dorsal fin and it’s pectoral and pelvic fins are elongated as in the case of it’s caudal fins. The tail should be long and flowing and droop slightly. Coloration is varied but highly prized specimens are usually white with some red or orange mix.

This breed is seldom seen in the West but is highly popular in the Far East. Of late, this breed seems to have become increasingly coveted due to it’s surreal, graceful appearance.

Goldfish Varieties-Pearlscale

The Pearlscale is a common breed both in the West and the Far East. The common variant is characterized by an almost spherical body shape. The head is similar to a common goldfish but rather broader when viewed from the top. The name is derived from the unique appearance of the scales whereby calcified deposits develop on the outer surface of the scale, forming a hard ‘pearly’ crust. The finnage is relatively short and similar to a fantail. Coloration is varied but most frequently in orange, red and white. Calico variants are also common.
Of late, exotic variant of the pearlscale have appeared in the Far East. Among these are Pearlscale Ranchus, Pearlscale Red Caps/Berets, etc. It seems that the Pearlscale characteristic can be successfully bred into other varieties of goldfish as well.

Goldfish Varieties-Fantail

The fantail is characterized by a twin tail configuration of medium length and size. The tail should be forked as well. The body is relatively deep with an appearance that is closer to a Comet than other fancier varieties such as the Veiltail or Oranda.

This breed is more common in the West than the Far East. Coloration is varied from self colored to metallic and calico. The fantail is known to be a hardy breed and is suitable for beginners.

Goldfish Varieties-Telescope/Moors

These are essentially identical breeds with the exception of the Moor being available only on Jet Black coloration; with the exception of the Butterfly Moor. The breed is characterized by it’s protruding eyes and broad graceful finnage. The body is relatively deep and somewhat rectangular when viewed from the top. The caudal fins are broad and characterized by it’s resemblance to a butterfly when viewed from the top. That is why the non-black varieties are sometimes known as Butterfly Moors in the Far East. The dorsal fin is relatively large and held high. This breed is also variously known as the Dragon Eye. In America, they are known as Telescope Eyes. In Japan, this breed is known as the Demekin.
This breed is one of the few breeds that are equally pleasant when viewed from above or from the side. Coloration is mainly self colored black, red and orange, silver, white and calico.

Goldfish Varieties-Oranda

The Oranda is a highly popular breed of goldfish in both the West and Far East. Essentially today, the breed consists of 2 sub-variants that are broadly known as Oranda. The first of the variant is the ‘traditional’ Oranda. It has a large growth at the top of the head known as the hood or the beret. The growth is limited only to the cranial region and rarely extends to the opercula. This variant first appeared in the 1600’s and is commonly known as the Red Cap Oranda.
The second variety has what is known as a ‘tigerhead’. This is characterized by raspberry like growth throughout the cranial, opercula and frontal region. This variety is regarded as an Oranda, although is the Far East, the term ‘Oranda Lionhead’ is sometimes erroneously applied to it. It’s body is short and deep with an arched back. It’s tail is broad and frequently split right up to the caudle peduncle. Examples of minimally forked tails seem be more common of late. The dorsal fin is high and erect with relatively large pectoral and pelvic fins. The tail should be erect and held high. Coloration is metallic, variegated or calico. This variety has been known to grow very large as in the case of Bruce (Left-Bottom [the largest living goldfish in the world]).

Goldfish Varieties-Veiltail

The veiltail is probably the fanciest of the ‘Western’ varieties of goldfish. The original veiltail is said to have been developed in America in the 1920s. This breed is characterized by a high and erect dorsal fin and broad triangular paired caudal fins that droop slightly. The body shape can best be described as a shorter and deeper form of the Common Goldfish.

Coloration is commonly metallic or calico. This breed is commonly available in Western countries but less so on the Far East. In China, this variety is known as the Long-finned Man Yu.

Goldfish Varieties-Jikin

The Jikin is also known as the Peacock Tail because the caudal fins are splayed and spread open when viewed from the top. This breed is believed to have been developed from the Wakin in Japan. It is known to be one of the more difficult varieties to breed to exacting standards. It is speculated that some breeders resort to un-natural methods such as surgery to produce the perfect tail on the Jikin. The variety displays identical coloration to the Wakin. It is popular in the Far East but is still relatively rare and expensive. It is even less common is the Western world.

Goldfish Varieties-Wakin

The Wakin is a double tailed variant of the Common Goldfish. It’s shape and form is largely identical to the Common although some examples display a somewhat deeper body. It’s has a double tail with a split running all the way up towards the caudle peduncle. It’s coloration is metallic and frequently variegated. Most frequently seen are red or orange varieties.
This is a popular breed in the Far East and healthy individuals can grow to become quite large. Good examples have been known to fetch premium prices. The Wakin is popularly known as the National Fish of Japan. This breed is relatively uncommon in the Western world.

Goldfish Varieties-Shubunkin

A more highly evolved variant of the Common Goldfish; is characterized by a single, large, rounded edge caudal fin and it’s ‘calico’ coloration. It’s body shape and form is similar to the Common Goldfish. Think of it as the Dalmation version of the Common Goldfish (the Bristol Shubunkin is only available in Calico coloration).

This breed is very popular in the West (the UK in particular). It is not commonly found in the Far East. The best examples of this breed should display spots of colors that extend to the finnage as well.

Goldfish Varieties-Comet

A fancier version of the Common Goldfish; is characterized by the longer dorsal, pectoral, pelvic, anal and caudal finnage. The caudal fin is shaped like a pair of open scissors. It’s body is long and slender when viewed from the top and sides. It’s coloration is similar to the Common Goldfish.

This is a relatively popular breed in the Western world. In the Far East, it is known as the Swallow Tail. However, this breed has become a bit of a rarity due to it’s relatively ordinary appearance.

Goldfish Varieties-Common Goldfish

True to it’s name, this breed is probably the most faithful representation of the ‘Original’ goldfish as first discovered many centuries ago. It’s shape can only be described as ordinary and ‘carp-like’ in appearance. It is most frequently found the ornamental ponds of Chinese restaurants and hotel lobbies. More frequently though, they are sold as feeder goldfish in Local Fish Stores (LFS).

The Common Goldfish as also known as the Golden Carp in the Far East and as the Hibuna in Japan. Coloration is mostly metallic (black, blue, brown, yellow, red and orange) or variegated (any combination of the main colours). This breed is hardy and is a good fish for beginners although they can be quite plain in appearance.

Goldfish Disease

Just like humans, goldfish can become sick too. And their diseases can also vary in variety and mortality too. In the following links, you will find some good guides on goldfish diseases, prevention and cures.

http://www.kokosgoldfish.com/disease.html
http://www.goldfishinfo.com/identify.htm
http://www.goldfishinfo.com/diagram.htm
http://www.fishdoc.co.uk/disease/diseasehome.htm

Feeding

Goldfish can have voracious appetites. If you're not careful you can easily overfeed your fish leading to ruptured intestines. This is not a pretty sight. A common mistake that beginners make is to give their fish too much food, thinking that it would make them grow faster. As you can imagine, this is a common misconception. Putting too much food into the water only serves to dirty the water and make more frequent changes necessary.

The common wisdom is to feed the fish 2-3 times a day. Each time, give no more than what the fish can finish in 2 minutes. Any more than that would be a waste.

DRY FOOD
Dry types of food are the most common type in the market today, they consist of pellets or flakes. They're are made of a balance of protein and carbohydates and are made mostly of fishmeal, grains and vegetable. The more premium varieties even include more expensive ingredients such as krill, seaweed, spirulina and with added vitamins and minerals. One popular brand in the market today is Hikari. Of course, there are even more specialist food type available through special/mail order.

When feeding dry food to goldfish, it would be good to soak the pellets or flakes in some warm water first. This is to ensure that the the food is properly moistened and does not cause any unexpected problems to the fish. One common problem is with floating type pellets. They are known to cause swim bladder problems in the fish. When this happens, the fish has difficulty maintaining it depth control, usually floating near the surface. When this happens, stop feeding the fish for a few days to allow it to get back to normal.

In addition to protein, goldfish diet will also need to be supplemented with 'green' food such as spirulina. Spirulina will enhance the digestive functions and prevent common dietary problems.

FRESH FOOD
In addition to dry food, fresh food is also a good supplement to the goldfish diet. In fact, I've noticed that goldfish seem to prefer fresh foods such as bloodworms, although they don't take to boiled peas and lettuce as quite so eagerly.

The only problem to look out for when feeding fresh food is the risk of parasites in the food. This is especially true in the case of bloodworms. Make sure you get your supply from a reputable supplier.

FROZEN FOOD
Fresh food can also be frozen to make it more convenient for storage and dispensing. Make sure you use a airtight container to keep the food isolated from the rest of the freezer. Of course, you need to defrost the food in some warm water or allow it to thaw before you feed it to the fish.

Maintenance

1) WATER QUALITY
Water quality is the overiding factor that could mean success or failure in this hobby. The more seasoned among the enthusiasts will tell you...'take care of the water and the fish will take care of themselves'. Of course lets not take the old adage at face value. You will still need to feed the fish, do regular water changes and clean out the filter and tank, etc, etc.

a) Water changes
Ok. You've set-up your aquarium already. It's been running for the past 2 months without any problems. You added your goldfish at the 5 week mark, after you cycled the tank of course. The fish seem to be doing well. They look good and are eating well. It should be smooth sailing from now on right? Well...right...provided you exercise some discipline in doing a few critical tasks, one of which is regular water changes.

A 100% stocked (meaning that you have a 100Gal. tank and are keeping 10 goldfish) tank would require 10-15% water change every week. But that's the figure given by fellow enthusiasts in colder climates. Here in the tropics, More frequent or larger water changes will be necessary. Goldfish tend to eat more and produce more waste when the water temperature is higher. Personally, I do a 40% water change every 6 days so. I've found this to be the ideal schedule considering the limited time I have to tend to my fish. Also, it would help if you have a large volume filter. Larger filters can keep a larger and more stable colony of bacteria, and clean your tank water more efficiently and quickly too. If you have the time, 20% water changes every 3 days would be even better.

If you have an outdoor pond, the sunlight will encourage the growth of algae. For some goldfish experts, algae in the water is actually a preferable condition to raise good quality specimens. However, the algae will tend to cloud the visibility of the water and ruin the aesthetic quality of your pond. To prevent algae, the addition of salt would be beneficial. In fact, goldfish tend to thrive in slightly brackish water. Salt also prevents the growth of parasites and other undesirables. Alternatively, you could install a UV Filter to prevent algae. They work by exposing the water to UV light and causing the Algae to clump together and be trapped by the mechanical filter.

b) Cleaning the Filter
Never clean the filter in clean water, even if it's declorinated. Always reserve a part of the water removed from the tank in a bucket. Use that water to rinse out the filter media. Never ever clean out the filter too rigorously. Remember that if you do that you will also be destroying the 'good bacteria' that has taken so long to be established.

If you need to replace any of the filter media, try to replace only 50% of it at any point in time. This is to ensure that some of the 'colonised' filter media still remains to 'seed' the new filter media.

What You Need

1) TANK & EQUIPMENT
Ok then...you've decided to spend you hard earned cash on your new Goldfish hobby. You can't wait to go out and buy your 100 Gallon Tank, fill it with water and add gorgeous Ryukin and Ranchus as soon as possible. You can't wait for them to fill up and develop magificent head growths and colours. Wait a minute...what tank should you get? what filter do you need?...it's easy to get ahead of ourselves isn't it?

Let's assume you've decided to keep your goldfish indoors, you need to then buy an aquarium, yes? No. The first thing you need to decide on is the space/area you want to position the aquarium. At the corner beside the TV? No good...too much radiation and heat, you might end up with a tankful of half-boiled fish. The ideal place IMHO, is right beside a window and away from any heat source, though a bit of sunlight is always good. And Feng Shui is also a huge consideration for me, personally. Don't want a wrongly positioned fishtank to cause any outflow (instead of inflow) of wealth now, would we? Now that you've decided on the position of the tank, you need to decide on the dimensions and volume of the tank.

Tanks cost more when they're larger. No surprise really. The bigger ones (50-100gals./200-400L) can easily cost upwards of RM500 (US$140). These are of course very well made, with aluminum frames/rounded edges and don't cause you nasty cuts that require a thousand stitches to mend. The cheaper varieties (that look like they were glued together by Mr Butter Fingers, using a gigantic tube of UHU) cost substantially less. You could also go out and buy a stadium sized tank and have it shipped to you on the back of a 747...if you lived in Northern Australia and had a zillion dollars. The bigger the better...now isn't life simple.

The filter is the lifeblood of your tank. I can't stress this more. Gone are the days when people could keep goldfish in bowls that measure 2 inches across, without a filter. The modern, highly evolved Ryukin would never stand for that...no sir it wouldn't...in fact I don't think it could, even if it tried. If you grew up watching those Tom & Jerry cartoons, I wouldn't blame you if you thought all goldfish lived in little castles, inside 'Yuri Gagarin helmet' style bowls. You could fill the biggest examples of these with about 10L of water.That's not even enough to cook a packet of instant noodles...let alone keep a fish alive for any amount of time. The very minimal that one fish should have is about 10gals. (45L), that's the very minimal. And even then with some form of filtration in place.

There are 3 kinds of filtration:

a) Mechanical & Biological Filtration
No...this is not the process of using some kind of machinery to clean your water. Mechanical filtration is the process of removing debris and insoluble waste from the water. These nasties are suspended in the water and can only be removed by chanelling the water through some mesh or porous material with tiny holes that allow the water to flow through but trap the particles. The water that is mechanically filtered should be clean, clear and free of insoluble waste.

Biological filtration is closely tied with mechanical filtration. Thats because most filters in the market take care of both these kinds of filtration simultaneously. Biological filtration has been partially explain in the earlier post about the Nitrogen Cycle. This is the process of removing the soluble waste (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate) from the aquarium. This is done by cultivating a robust colony of 'good bacteia' in you filter material. The bacteria colony when establish, should guarantee good quality water provided water changes are done regularly.

Several varieties of mechanical/biological filters exist. I'll try to describe some of them:
i) Undergravel
- This type of filter consist of a pump and a series of pipes embedded under the aquarium's gravel bed. The gravel bed acts as the mechanical and biological filter. Water is channeled through the gravel pipes and exit through the pump. Often, some form of aeration is added also. This type of filtration is very 'old-school' and the process of cleaning the filter can be quite troublesome. This method is not ideal for goldfish.

ii) Box Filters
- These types of filters may be placed inside or above the water, depending on their specific application and brand. Generally speaking, a water pump/powerhead that may be integrated or separate from the filter channels water through the filtration media to remove the waste mechanically and biologically. Aeration function is often included as well. This is the most common filter type due to it's relative easy of maintenance and low cost.

iii) Power Filters
- Power filters often come in the form of a box that includes the pump within the assembly. The box is usually hung at the back of the aquarium, above the waterline. A pipe that extends almost to the base of the aquarium sucks the water up into the box and through the filtration media. The water exits like a mini-waterfall through the front of the box. This type of filter has been gaining popularity in recent years due to it's compact size and relative ease of maintenance.

iv) Cannister Filters
- Cannister filters are a relatively recent innovation and is fast gaining popularity due to its effectiveness ans ease of maintenance. The system consists of a 'cannister' placed below and often behind the aquarium. 2 lengths of hoses, one to extract water into the filter, the other to return water to the aquarium are placed inside the aquarium. Usually no aeration is included in the setup and a separate air pump will need to be installed. Maintenance of the filter very convenient due to it's modular design.

b) Chemical Filtration
- Chemical filtration is the removal of soluble waste from the water through the use of activated carbon or chemical additives. Usually the addition of activated carbon is sufficient to remove these impurities and odours from the water.

c) Lighting
A tankful of expensive goldfish would be incomplete if you didn't display them in all their glory, isn't it so? Several lighting options can be chosen nowadays and the more common types consist of a fluorescent tube beneath an aquarium cover. Recently however, the more 'modern' setups consist of an open frame without an integrated cover. The light source is invariably fluorescent tubes but more frequently, 'power saving' bulbs are becoming more popular.

The Basics

For most enthusiast, the practice of keeping goldfish is extremely rewarding hobby. There is probably nothing more satisfying than purchasing an inch long young fish and raising it well until it grows to become a 7 or 8 inch beauty. Of course, not all attempts to do that would be successful, especially more so for a beginner. The art and craft of keeping goldfish can be simple or complex,depending on your level of involvement. For the casual hobbyist, all that would be required is a good sized aquarium filled with clean clear water, a reasonably good filtration system and regular feedings. For the ultra-enthusiast or breeder, there are many considerations and processes that have to be perfected in order to create the perfect environment for goldfish to thrive.

STARTING OUT
Alright, you've set your mind on setting up a tank to keep goldfish. If you're a first time aquarist, I would recommend doing lots of reading on the subject. Also, talking to friends who have been keeping fish would be extremely helpful. They will be able to highlight the pittfalls you have to watch out for and the dos and don'ts. The following is a simple checklist to plan for a tank:

1) Pond or Aquarium?
- Decide if you want to keep goldfish inside or outdoors. This is the critical first decision. Either choice would affect the kind of equipment you need to buy and the varieties of goldfish you can keep.

A pond provides a fantastic environment for goldfish to thrive in. The sizeable dimensions of the pond will provide the space necessary for you pet goldfish to grow to their optimum size and aesthetic quality. Provided that the pond is not overstocked, your fish will probably be very happy indeed. The larger volume of the pond would also provide a more stable environment in terms of water quality, resulting in less frequent water changes and maintenance. Also, goldfish thrive in slightly 'green' water with moderate algae growth. The sunshine outdoors encourages algae to grown in the pond.

On the other hand, a pond is subject to changes to the weather and has drastic effect on the fish. A sudden downpour/snowfall would likely reduce water temperature drastically and kill your fish. In the tropics, the severe sunshine is equally damaging. Also, there is the risk of predatory animals attacking your fish.

An aquarium is more 'practical' in many ways vis-a-vis a pond. Being indoors ensures that the weather has minimal impact on the water condition. Also, many goldfish are at their best when viewed from the side, making the aquarium the preferred choice for many enthusiasts. However, a large aquarium can take up a lot of space indoors and can more 'troublesome' to take care of and keep clean. In spite of this, the aquarium is and will likely be the preferred choice for most people due to it's easy accessibility and affordability.

2) Cycle, Cycle & Cycle
To the beginner, cycling can be a very odd word to encounter the first time round. The process itself can, at first, seem very complex and intimidating. Ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, etc...it can all be so confusing. However, bear in mind that the process of cycling determines the quality of your water and there is no substitute or short cut.

Cycling is nature's way of maintaining a a balance in the condition of the water. Very simply, cycling is the process of eliminating waste from the water. Fish live in a medium of water, they extract their air from it and unfortunately also release their waste into it. Imaging if you lived in a sealed room and released all your waste (CO2, urine & excrement) into the air...very soon that room will be a very uncomfortable, if not, deadly place to live in. So can you imaging what a goldfish goes through when kept in a bowl without a filter?

The mistake many new hobbyist make is to put fish into a newly set-up tank without giving it time to 'cycle'. When this happens, the fish soon become sick and die. Some people call this the 'new tank syndrome' and it happens to many beginners. There can be no greater temptation than to fill a new tank with fish and enjoy the sight of them frolicking in the crystal clear waters. Take note however, that this is the worst mistake you can make. A new tank will need to be 'cycled' for at least 1 month before you can add a new fish into it.

3) The 'Cycling' Process
The cycling process is actually known as the 'Nitrogen Cycle'. The process of cycling begings when ammonia is first introduced into the water. This ammonia can be added artificially (in fishless cycling) or naturally (by fish waste through the gills and anus). You can choose to cycle fishless or naturally. Personally I've found the fishless method to be more effective. Below is an link about fishless cycling taken from Pactical Fishkeeping:

http://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/pfk/pages/show_article.php?article_id=113

If you choose to cycle naturally, then you will have to introduce a relatively hardy variety of fish (feeder goldfish, catfish, snakehead[Toman]) into the tank to kick start the cycling. The food and waste introduced into the tank will soon cause ammonia levels to rise. As this happens, good bacteria (Nitrobacter/Nitrosomonas) will start to grow in the water. As the ammonia level rises, the bacteria begin to convert the ammonia into nitrites. Nitrite is an extremely toxic subtance to the fish. It is said to 'burn' it's gills the way shampoo 'burns' our eyes. The ammonia level drops when the nitrite level begins to rise. The good bacteria then converts the nitrites into nitrates. Nitrate is relatively harmless to fish and in high concentrations would probably cause a loss of appetite and listlessness. Nitrate is removed through water changes or plantlife. The objective of cycling is to establish a colony of 'good' bateria in your tank and filter. Once this colony stabilizes, the cycling process is considered to be complete. A properly cycled tank will show trace amounts of ammonia and nitrites at regular intervals. Only the nitrate readings will rise in the absence of plants. For more detailed information, please refer to the following link:

http://www.firsttankguide.net/cycle.php

All Shapes & Sizes

GOLDFISH CLASSIFICATION
Selective breeding over centuries has produced several color variations, some of them far removed from the "golden" color of the originally domesticated fish. There are also different body shapes, fin and eye configurations. Some extreme versions of the goldfish need to be kept in an aquarium — they are much less hardy than varieties closer to the "wild" original. However, some variations are hardier, such as the Shubunkin.

In Traditional Chinese goldfish keeping, goldfish are classified into 4 main types. These classifications are not commonly used in the west:

Dragon Eye - Goldfish with extended eyes, e.g. Moors (Black & Butterfly), Bubble Eye, and Telescopic Eye. In the above picture is an example of a telescopic eye, in this case, a Broadtail Moor.

Egg - Goldfish without a dorsal fin. e.g. Lionhead (note that a bubble eye without a dorsal fin belongs to this group) . In the above picture is a fine example of an eggfish, in this case, a Red & White Eggfish.

Wen - Goldfish with dorsal fin and a fancy tail. e.g. Veiltail ("wen" is also the name of the characteristic headgrowth on such strains as Oranda, Ranchu and Lionhead) . In the above picture is a fine example of a, Orange & White Ranchu.

Ce (may also be called "grass") - Goldfish without anything fancy. This is the type that is usually used in Japanese carnivals, especially for "goldfish scoops". Jikin and wakin - goldfish with double tails, but with the body shapes of comets. The above picture is an example of a Comet, a long finned variety of the Common Goldfish.

However, this classification may need to be updated as the popular Ryukin variant does not seem to fit within any of the 4 main types.

Sources:
http://www.chinagoldfish.com/english/index.htm

Goldfish in the Wild

Goldfish natively live in ponds, and other slow or still moving bodies of water in depths up to 20 m (65 ft). Their native climate is subtropical to tropical and they live in freshwater with a pH of 6.0–8.0, and a water hardness of 5.0–19.0dGH, and a temperature range of 40 to 106 °F (4 to 41 °C); although at the higher temperature, they'll probably survive a minute or so. They don't do well in a heated tropical fish tank, as they are used to the greater amount of oxygen in unheated tanks, and some believe that the heat burns them. However, goldfish have been observed living for centuries in outdoor ponds in which the temperature often spikes above 86 °F (30 °C). When found in nature, the goldfish are actually an olive green color. Even domesticated goldfish have been known to revert to this olive green color after releasing into the wild. The picture below shows a goldfish pond set-up to mimic the natural habitat of the goldfish.

In their natural environment, their diet consists of crustaceans, insects, and various plant matter. While it is true that goldfish can survive in a fairly wide temperature range, the optimal range for indoor fish is 68 to 75 °F (20 to 23 °C). Pet goldfish, as with many other fish, will usually eat more food than it needs if given, which can be fatal. They are omnivorous and do best with a wide variety of fresh vegetables and fruit to supplement a flake or pellet diet staple.

Sudden changes in water temperature can be fatal to any fish, including the goldfish. When transferring a store-bought goldfish to a pond or a tank, the temperature in the storage container should be equalized by leaving it in the destination container for at least 20 minutes before releasing the goldfish. In addition, some temperature changes might simply be too great for even the hardy goldfish to adjust to. For example, buying a goldfish in a store, where the water might be 70 °F (approximately 21 °C), and hoping to release it into your garden pond at 40 °F (4 °C) will probably result in the death of the goldfish, even if you use the slow immersion method just described. A goldfish will need a lot more time, perhaps days or weeks, to adjust to such a different temperature.

Because goldfish like to eat live plants, their presence in an aquarium can be quite a problem. Only a few of the aquarium plant species can survive in a tank with goldfish, for example Cryptocoryne and Anubias species, but they require special attention so that they are not uprooted. Fake plants are often more durable, but the plant branches can often irritate or harm a fish if it comes in contact with them.

BEHAVIOUR
Behavior can vary widely both because goldfish are housed in a variety of environments, and because their behavior can be conditioned by their owners. A common misconception that goldfish only have a three second memory has been proven completely false (Busted on the show Mythbusters).

Scientific studies done on the matter have shown that goldfish have strong associative learning abilities, as well as social learning skills. In addition, their strong visual acuity allows them to distinguish between different humans. It is quite possible that owners will notice the fish react favorably to them (swimming to the front of the glass, swimming rapidly around the tank, and going to the surface mouthing for food) while hiding when other people approach the tank. Over time, goldfish should learn to associate their owners and other humans with food, often "begging" for food whenever their owners approach. Auditory responses from a blind goldfish proved that he recognized one particular family member and a friend by voice, or vibration of sound. This behavior was very remarkable because it showed that he recognized the vocal vibration or sound of two people specifically out of seven in the house.

Goldfish also display a range of social behaviors. When new fish are introduced to the tank, aggressive social behaviors may sometimes be seen, such as chasing the new fish, or fin nipping. These usually stop within a few days. Fish that have been living together are often seen displaying schooling behavior, as well as displaying the same types of feeding behaviors. Goldfish may display similar behaviors when responding to their reflections in a mirror.
Goldfish that have constant visual contact with humans also seem to stop associating them as a threat. After being kept in a tank for several weeks, it becomes possible to feed a goldfish by hand without it reacting in a frightened manner. Some goldfish have been trained to swim through mazes, push a ball through a hoop, or even swim in a synchronized routine by their owners.

Goldfish have behaviors, both as groups and as individuals that stem from native carp behavior. They are a generalist species with varied feeding, breeding, and predators avoidance behaviors that contribute to their success in the environment. As fish they can be described as "friendly" towards each other, very rarely will a goldfish harm another goldfish, nor do the males harm the females during breeding. The only real threat that goldfish present to each other is in food competition. Common goldfish, comets, and other faster varieties can easily eat all the food during a feeding before fancy varieties can reach it. This can be a problem that leads to stunted growth or possible starvation of fancier varieties when they are kept in a pond or aquarium with their single-tailed brethren. As a result, when mixing breeds in an aquarium environment, care should be taken to combine only breeds with similar body type and swim characteristics.

Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Main_Page

Ahhh...The Humble Goldfish

Just the other day I was in a petshop and overhead a little girl asking her mom to buy her a goldfish. The mom said no of course. She repeated her request, pointing, in turn, to a tankful of gourami, angelfish, carp, catfish, ciclid, oscar, etc. Right now you're thinking what a little girl's actions have to do with a piece on goldfish history. Well...it's obvious...can't you see? The goldfish was her first choice. Not the gourami...not the oscar...certainly not the catfish. Out of the whole universe of colourful, mostly friendly fish...she chose the goldfish.

The goldfish is the most commonly kept ornamental fish in aquariums and ponds. It’s scientific name is Carassius auratus and is closely related to the Koi family. It was domesticated around the 9th Century AD. It is a domesticated version of a dark-grey/brown carp native to East Asia (first domesticated in China) and was introduced to Europe in the late 17th century. The mutated gene that gave rise to the goldfish, also occurs in Common Carp and Tench. Goldfish may attain a maximum length of 23 inches (59 cm) and weigh close to 9.9 pounds (4.5 kg). However, this is rare as few goldfish will ever reach half that size. In optimal conditions, goldfish may live more than 20 years (the world record is 49 years), but most households goldfish generally live only six to eight years, due to their often being kept in tiny containers without filters.

WHERE ON EARTH DID THEY COME FROM?
During the Tang Dynasty in China (AD 618—907), it was a popular pastime to raise carp in ponds (to watch not to eat). As a result of the genetic mutation, one of these carp developed gold (actually yellowish orange) rather than silver coloration. Soon people began to breed this gold instead of the silver variety, and displayed them in small containers. The fish were kept in a larger pool of water, such as a pond; and only for special occasions at which guests were expected, would they be moved to the much smaller container for display. It is believed that this chain of evolution is similar to that of the Koi family; to which the goldfish is closely related.

In 1162, an Empress of the Song Dynasty ordered the building of a pond to collect the red and gold variety of those carp. By this time, people outside the royal family were forbidden to keep goldfish of the gold (yellow) variety, yellow being the royal color. This could be the reason why there are more orange goldfish than yellow goldfish in existence today, even though the latter are genetically easier to breed.

The occurrence of other colors was first recorded in 1276. The first occurrence of fancy tailed goldfish was recorded in the Ming Dynasty. In 1502, goldfish were introduced to Japan, where the Ryukin and Tosakin varieties were further developed. In 1854, goldfish were introduced to Portugal and from there to other parts of Europe. Goldfish were first introduced to North America around 1850 and quickly became popular in the United States.

Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Main_Page